Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are small, colorful reptiles native to the arid regions of South Asia, noted for their docile temperament and ground-dwelling habits.

A variety of morphs and mutations alter their coloration, leading to differing price points among breeders and expos; common morphs range from $20–$100, while rare morphs may exceed several hundred dollars. A minimum enclosure size for one adult is a 40-gallon breeder tank (36″ × 16″ × 18″), furnished with either paper towels or a well-draining semiarid substrate.

Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) originate from the rocky grasslands and desert areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, and Iran (ReptiFiles). Hatchlings measure 3–4 inches (7–10 cm) at birth, reaching full size by 12–18 months: females to 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) and males to 8–11 inches (20–28 cm) (LGL). They lack adhesive toe pads, use movable eyelids, and can autotomize their fat-storing tails as a defense. These geckos are crepuscular and can live 15–20 years in captivity when properly cared for (PetMD).

Proper housing is critical: adult leopard geckos require at least a 36″ × 16″ × 18″ (90 × 40.64 × 45 cm) enclosure to establish thermal gradients and allow natural behavior.

Substrate choices range from paper towels to a semiarid mix (e.g., 50% organic soil, 50% play sand). Avoid loose sediment that poses impaction risks, and monitor substrate ingestion (RSPCA).

To create a "basking zone," use a 60–100 W ceramic lamp or basking bulb that's properly guarded to prevent burns. Leopard geckos sense heat through their bellies, so place natural slate or rock under the heat source to absorb daytime warmth. Always use a thermostat with all heat sources: position the probe of a dimming thermostat just above the substrate, then adjust until the basking zone measures 28–30 °C (82–86 °F) with a digital thermometer. The cool end of the enclosure should read 24–26 °C (75–79 °F) (RSPCA Care Sheet).

UVB lighting is optional but can enhance calcium metabolism. A low-output UVB bulb (e.g., Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0) on a 10–12 hour schedule can benefit your gecko (PetMD).

Leopard geckos thrive in low ambient humidity of 30–40%, with high ventilation to prevent respiratory issues. A mesh lid or side vents ensure airflow (ReptiFiles). Avoid sustained levels above 50%.

Provide a humid hide (~70–80% humidity) by placing damp sphagnum moss or paper towels inside a hide on the cool side. This microclimate assists shedding without raising the entire tank's humidity (ReptiFiles).

Insectivorous by nature, leopard geckos should be offered a variety of gut-loaded insects such as crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, and occasional waxworms (treat only) (RSPCA; ReptiFiles Feeding).

Juveniles (0–12 months) eat daily; adults every 2–3 days. Dust feeders with calcium powder (with D₃ for non-UVB setups) at every feeding for young and half the time for adults. A calcium dish in the enclosure allows self-supplementation (RSPCA Rescue).

Always provide a shallow dish of fresh water, cleaned daily. Water dishes also create slight humidity, which can be beneficial near hides (The Spruce Pets).

Enrichment promotes natural behaviors and mental stimulation, so it is important to include multiple hides (warm, cool, and humid), low climbing structures, and a digging area to encourage exploration and exercise (PMC Study).

Decorate with rocks, cork bark, and artificial plants to create cover and visual barriers, reducing stress and mimicking the gecko's natural habitat. Periodically rearrange decor for novelty, and allow supervised free-range time in a safe space can also be enriching (ReptiFiles).